Slow fire.
Good smoke.

Braised from 3am. Beef cheek so tender it falls apart if you look at it wrong. Two tortillas — you will need both.

Pork shoulder marinated overnight in dried chile and achiote. The crispy bits at the edge — those are the point.

Goat braised in guajillo and árbol until the broth turns garnet. Dip the tortilla. Don't skip this.

Roasted oyster mushrooms, charred poblano, a thread of crema. Proof that meatless can make you close your eyes.

Grilled over mesquite. Rolled in cotija and chile de árbol. The lime is not optional.

Rice, cinnamon, coconut milk. Cold enough to make the heat feel earned. Refills while we have it.